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3.26.09 Travel Log - Inkheul Parc and Bizerte

By: Gina Short

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Nature came and history paused even if for a moment. I took a louage (mini-bus) to Parc Inkheul. Yes, I couldn’t pronounce it so the taxi driver couldn’t understand me. All 7 people in the bus varied the pronunciation until one person and I agreed we were talking about the same location and everyone laughed when they discovered I totally gutted the words. Oh well. My French is laughable with its kid like musings! The driver stopped and dropped me off for my 7 km walk to the park entrance. I tried to hitch a ride with a tractor but he said no but I hitched on with a truck and soon found out I was with the park director as we drove by the water buffalo. How lucky could I get? We had an even better connection when I told him I worked for the US government.

So much so, I didn’t have to pay to entrance fee and he told a staff member to go with me. I told him I was fine by myself. The member had his orders and ignored my words. I tried to signal my decision to go alone with my sparse words and actions of sitting alone but he refused to take the hint. I did lose him for a little bit but it was inevitable he would find me as I was in his territory not in mine. Along the way, we passed a section filled with frogs near a swampy area. I stepped closer and heard a number jump into the water therefore would nudge in small steps to see how many would go in at a time. I couldn’t get too close. I didn’t share my peanut brittle type of snack with them.

Soon we hit the ecomuseum. Families brought food and layed them out for picnics and children rambled around the bushes. Once I agreed to be with my “guide/bodyguard” he took me hiking into the hills which I duly loved. We followed the rocks up to the top of the hill and overlooked the large lake with its wide, expansive skies and farm fields lush with produce. At times, the wind was soo fierce that I had to keep myself steady. This is the windiest country I’ve ever visited! Cows grazed along our path. Once, we saw several wild boars and the guide said they were dangerous and I agreed remembering my days in the Philippines. He threw rocks to ensure our safe passage. Once, though, I wore him out and he required rest while I continued with stamina from only six biscuits for breakfast and lunch. I let him rest. We continued our pace being followed by birds chirping around us.

We returned to the park entrance after climbing down the hill. He got us a ride in the back of a small delivery truck until then. Luckily, we saw a louage parked nearby and he asked the driver to take me to the nearest town. OK. The louage, filled with kids and their parent, set off with the kids eyeing me in curiosity and I with them in a smile. Before I knew it, the mini-van stopped and the driver tried to give me directions to my mini-bus station before the park director stopped next to us and invited me to the truck again. I laughingly agreed. Small world! Unfortunately, he took me to the wrong station but I didn’t tell him that but then asked people for directions for my bus station. Of course, I had to buy a pastry in the patisserie in thanks. I am slowly feeling like a local without language.

I hit Bizerte to walk through the main section. The ribat walls passed me along my way to the beach. I strolled and strolled along the stretch with a stop or two. Once again, people played soccer while a truck drove by on the soft sand. The jetty going out into the water called so I continued until hitting the lighthouse. Kids traipsed along the artificial barricade jumping from block to block with some screaming at the slightest challenge. I just leapt from one to another…in safety mind you. The sun set too quickly!

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